Welcome to Cabanaconde!

We took the overnight bus to Cabanaconde, leaving at 1:30am and arriving around 7am.  Unfortunately, our days of EJECUTIVO buses were over. There was only the regular service with multiple stops, and lots of people crammed in.  People kept getting in and out, and the road was bumpy and rough the entire time. 

I was the AISLE BITCH for this ride.  Yep, I took one for the team. It was horrible, and I kept reminding Bianca just how lucky she was to be flanked by the window on one side and me on the other. . . and to not be getting whacked with everyone`s bags, scarves, and small children as they walked by.  Or, in several instances, when they just sit on your armrest, practically in your lap.  I figured that it was the least I could do since I dragged her ass down here to travel with me!   Actually it wasn`t too bad. Taking buses overnight at least saves you a travel day.

Cabanaconde feels like the wild wild west.  My 4 yrs at Arizona State were some of the best. I have a thing for the desert and especially loved the Grand Canyon.  Cabanaconde is one of the towns nestled alongside of the Colca Canyon, which is twice as big as the Grand Canyon.  I was in HEAVEN… except when I went to buy some water at a local shop and the storekeeper was busy working on this guy:

Sorry guys.  It was too good to pass up.  The poor little chicken had one leg amputated already, was gutted, and several flies were already helping themselves to his innards.  It was kinda funny because he just stopped what he was doing to hand me my change.  I looked around for Bianca and she was running out of the shop ready to vomit.  Funny.    I swear I don`t know what we would`ve done without Purell on this trip! 

Despite the chicken experience, we absolutely loved this place!  The Canyon is magical (and tough as hell).  We are so happy that we didn`t sign up for a group tour, because it allowed us to just explore the trails on our own.  The first day we did a five hour hike in and back out of the canyon.

There is an “oasis” at the bottom of the canyon that is only accessible by these trails. It`s pretty incredible that EVERYTHING is transported in and out by donkey only (including tourists too tired to climb back up from what I`ve heard).   Hiking canyons is mentally challenging, because you`re going for a few hourse before you REALLY start to work (and go back up).  We had an interesting little run-in with one man and his 4 donkeys when we were climbing back up.  We saw them coming so climbed up on some rocks to the side of the trail to let them pass.  Then he stopped right in front of us, drunk as a skunk, and wanted to know where we were from.  Um, we`re hanging onto this rock wall… please MOVE YOUR ASS forward.  I kindly told him and asked him to please continue.  This went on, back and forth, a few more times and a few more requests from me to please move so we can come down and continue.  He said NO.  Screw it, we said… and just climbed up the rocks to bypass him and get back on the trail. In hindsight, funny.  At the time, not so fun.  A drunk man descending a canyon trail with 4 donkeys is a dangerous thing. 

We also were pleased to meet a nice German couple who we soon learned had a rental car and was headed back to Arequipa on Tuesday.  Jackpot!  Bianca practiced her German and we both did everything in our power to make them fall in love with us and avoid having to return to the city in bus.  All the “DANKE´s” going around, combined with our tendency to call out “DONKEY SHIT” to the hiker behind us when on a trail, led to a comical revelation that we could just say Danke schön! when passing donkey poop.  (Sounds like donkey shit.)  That was our code word.  Funny what your mind does when you`re exhausted and dehydrated. 

Day 2 we decided to find another trail, a bit longer, and complete the down and up in one day, about  a 6.5hr hike.  Well, maybe it wouldn`t have been, but we took a wrong trail at first and then figured it out. The views were just awesome and it really felt like we were out in the middle of nowhere. 

This was some seriously awesome base training!  We couldn`t believe how positively trashed we were on the 2nd day of hiking up the canyon.  It got to the point of just putting one foot in front of the other.  We finished that and then went for a 90min T-run.  JUST KIDDING.  We headed immediately towards the nearest shop to buy something salty.  Or chocolaty.   Or both.

On our way out of town with our German saviors, we stopped at La Cruz Del Condor, one of the few places in the world where you`re pretty much guaranteed to see the Andean Condor.  I`m not even a bird person, and I thought this was really cool.  Bill Lotz, this one`s for you:

Driving out towards Arequipa, we were slowed down by a llama crossing.

More scenes from the road.

We arrived in Arequipa and headed straight for the most awesome CEVICHE ever.  One night in this city and now we`re headed back home tonight.  Thanks for checking in.